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There are places in the Italy of wine, where peasants still today cultivate vines in terraces with dry stone walls and vinify their “vin de caneva” at home (and they can be counted on their fingertips: 23), without remuneration economic, but only with a spirit of landscape protection and pride in their productalong paths that lead to villages in the valley that smell of polenta and venison and agricultural pizza and tell of ancient Cimbrian legends: among these, there is Vallarsa, a wild and lonely valley in Trentino, where history was written along the front of the Great War, as evidenced by the “Peace” trails, the “Heroes” peaks and the “Strada delle 52 Gallerie”, between the Little Dolomites and Monte Corno Battisti on Pasubio, dedicated to Cesare Battisti who was captured here on 10 July 1916, before being executed, in an attempt to conquer the summit by the Austrians, through the maze of tunnels, trenches and artillery positions, in which the First World War was fought. Between history, identity and agriculture, it is the background of “98 Terrazze”, a territorial project for the recovery of historically planted terraces, rural heritage of the valley, with the Proloco as the “leader” and which brings together farmers and inhabitants, which started in recent days from Valmorbia in the heart of the valley, with the “laying” of the first stone at the beginning of a new wall – strictly dry – that anxiously awaits to grow and give life to new terraces, defined by the writer and journalist Alberto Folgheraiter “a pentagram of dry stone walls that draw the sides of the mountain to retain the land for self-consumption “, through conservative restoration interventions to be allocated to the breeding of historical vine varieties, with the ambition of producing a local wine that is the fruit of the participation and skills of the community.
The Proloco has been dedicated for years in the attempt to recover a history that has contributed for centuries to forging the identity of the people of Vallarsa. A sunken and forgotten history that in the last century has changed the perception of who we are. After ten years of work, with the contribution of historians, essayists, anthropologists and researchers, but also thanks to the comparison with winemakers of other territories, from Valtellina to Val Venosta, to Val di Cembra, who have seen these lands and have understood and shared them potential, this story is now returning to emerge strongly thanks to wine, and WineNews also wants to help tell it.
The “98 Terraces” project will continue during the year, in the reconquest of plots of land, now acquired by the forest. The appointment is for next year, or even before the harvest, in an idea of ​​collective recovery of some of the 98 terraces of the valley, with the conviction that through another concept of agriculture it is possible to give a new and current perspective to the mountain peasant civilization, before it turns into a mute history.
The mountain agricultural process considers the economies of scope and not of scale, protecting the health of the soil and of those who live there, enhancing local knowledge and cultures, traditional techniques and the maintenance of the historical landscape, fruit of the footsteps of history and nature. And this will be the goal of a new agricultural project for Vallarsa, with a spirit of sharing that is typical of the peasant culture of past generations.

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Marco Ribaudo

Marco Ribaudo

For the love of food and wine! Marco Ribaudo, Certified Sommelier, with 25 years in the food and beverage industry now invites you to join him in his latest adventure, the opening of la Cucina del Vino to share his culture and passion for creating unforgettable memories around the table.

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