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In Irpinia, the story that started from the alarm of the Italian CIA-Agricoltori on the canceled orders for Aglianico grapes for 130 winegrowers in the Paternopoli area at the beginning of August continues, especially by a large company, such as Nativ, substantially for market reasons, as explained by the entrepreneur himself, Mario Ercolino. And, after the clarifications of the Consorzio dei Vini di Irpinia, according to which the numbers are much lower than the 25,000 quintals of grapes hypothesized by the CIA-Agricoltori, it is now also the Confagricoltura Avellino that gives its reading.
“In recent days, articles and news on the situation of Irpinia viticulture have appeared in the newspapers and on social networks that lead to careful reflections, in order above all to refute the representation of a situation of crisis in sales in the sector – underlines the organization of agricultural enterprises – which is certainly not a collective phenomenon, although it may affect individual companies, and consequently prevent the Irpinia wine brand from being perceived as a supply chain in difficulty. Confagricoltura Avellino, following a timely check among the operators in the sector, found that compared to a hypothetical general crisis of Irpinia wines, as unexpectedly hypothesized in the articles mentioned above, there are “entrepreneurs” who are having success on the markets with all the denominations of the province of Avellino “. Still, adds Confagricoltura, “compared to certainly unweighted assertions that the wines of the Taurasi Docg and the Fiano di Avellino Docg do not sell, there are examples of the Taurasi and Fiano di Avellino ranges internationally recognized as ambassadors of Italian enology in the world. “.
Then, a call to moderation, even within the Irpinia wine supply chain, because “it is necessary that everyone, especially those who hold aggregation roles in the supply chain, take care to preserve the value of the investments of the same in a long-term perspective, above all to safeguard those companies that daily defend the value of their products and their land on the markets. It would be intolerable to discredit an entire category of serious Irpinia wine entrepreneurs. If it is true that some grape productions today find placement difficulties – continues Confagricoltura Avellino – it should be noted that many of them were previously not destined for the production of wines with a designation of origin, being, despite the value, ended up in channels of generic and low-priced products. On the other hand, it is enough to read the official production data of our DOCGs to have evidence of the fact that those enormous volumes have not even in the past entered the circuits of higher quality wines “. Still, then, comes a solicitation to work to enhance the wine through the territory, “it is not replicable”, more than through the vine, working on the bottled product and not so much on the bulk, because “these forms of marketing are characterized by very lower, such as not to allow the remuneration of production costs, considering the orography of the Irpinia soils “. And this, of course, would have a negative impact on the values ​​of grapes, vineyards and land. But Confagricoltura, indirectly, seems to respond to the statements of Ercolino himself, who had raised the issue of the aging time for Taurasi before being able to go on the market, both for a question of costs and for a question of change in consumer tastes. increasingly oriented towards fresher and lighter wines.
“Even with respect to the specifications – adds, in fact, Confagricoltura Avellino – we would like to reiterate that the credibility of a designation of origin has always been based on the rigor of its specifications. If a great red for aging such as Taurasi were presented on the market without a minimum period of three years of aging, it would become a common wine, with further impoverishment of its perceived value. If a Taurasi were to go on the markets after only two years in the cellar, it would not even have the maturity and balance necessary to compare with other prestigious red wines “. And this, according to Confagricoltura Avellino, also emerges from the fact that some of the producers “most attentive to the enhancement of products” keep the same Taurasi in aging even longer than the minimum required by the disciplinary.
“Any unfortunate attempt to dismantle all the drivers for creating the value of fine wines must be averted. No emergency intervention – concludes Confagricoltura – can provide concrete contributions to such a complex supply chain. It is necessary to plan the development having in mind the practicable positioning options, which, as highlighted above, in the case of the Irpinia supply chain are well defined by the characteristics of the territory, unsuitable to compete on standardized forms of cultivation. In conclusion, no shortcut can produce long-term flattering results: the feasible proposals for the continuation of the development path of the fine wines of Irpinia cannot ignore the theme of the value of the bottle, the rigor of the production regulations, the positioning of value. , of a gradual growth of the presence in the channels with the highest yield “.

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Marco Ribaudo

Marco Ribaudo

For the love of food and wine! Marco Ribaudo, Certified Sommelier, with 25 years in the food and beverage industry now invites you to join him in his latest adventure, the opening of la Cucina del Vino to share his culture and passion for creating unforgettable memories around the table.

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