Subzones, crus and all that is needed to identify the origin of a wine in an ever more precise way are making their way more and more in the panorama of Italian wine. And now, shortly after the announcement of the introduction of the Mga “Pieve” by Nobile di Montepulciano (but also in the more remote past Barolo, Barbaresco and Soave), the news arrives that Montebaldo, La Rocca and Sommacampagna, the three historical crus of Bardolino, they are back to reality: the decree of the Ministry of Agricultural Policies which recognizes the three sub-areas and which allows the new production disciplinary of DOC Bardolino to officially enter into force was published on Monday 12 April 2021 in the Official Gazette of the Italian Republic .
The three crus of Bardolino were already known at the end of the nineteenth century, when the ruby red wine of Lake Garda was served in the Swiss Grand Hotels alongside the wines of Burgundy and Beaujolais. Already then the existence of three sub-areas was known, identified by wine merchants in 1825 (thirty years before the Bordeaux classification, made in 1855) and then identified geomorphologically by Giovanni Battista Perez in 1900 in the volume “The Province of Verona and its wines “. The wines of these macro-areas were recognized with some organoleptic and qualitative peculiarities, which however escaped the compilers of the production disciplinary of 1968.
“We are proud – comments Franco Cristoforetti, resident of the Bardolino Consortium – that a long process that began six years ago, in 2015, has finally come to an end. The new disciplinary that now comes into force aims to focus on territoriality and to enhance the different characteristics of the wines of the three historical sub-areas, two already known centuries ago. It will be limited productions and of considerable value, destined to offer a new perspective, also in terms of longevity, to the red wines of our territory, enhancing their characteristics of lightness and finesse, according to a historical vision that has returned to great modernity ” .
The production area of the sub-area Montebaldo includes the municipalities of Affi, Caprino Veronese, Cavaion Veronese, Costermano sul Garda and Rivoli Veronese. The area takes its name from the mountain range of the same name, where the altitudes are higher and the climate is cooler. The wines produced here recall the aromas of strawberry and cloves.
The fortress, so called from the hill overlooking Lake Garda north of Bardolino, instead includes the municipalities of Bardolino, Castelnuovo del Garda, Garda, Lazise, Peschiera del Garda and Torri del Benaco: in the wines of this sub-area there are notes of raspberry and cinnamon.
Sommacampagna is the sub-area of the hills south-east of the denomination and includes the municipalities of Bussolengo, Pastrengo, Sommacampagna, Sona and Valeggio sul Mincio. This is the ancient Summa Campànea, the high sunny countryside that emerges from the plain. Cherry and black pepper are the typical aromas of its wines.
For producers who have complied with the very stringent requirements of the new specification since the last harvest, it will be possible to go out on the market as early as next September with the first sub-zone Bardolino of the 2020 vintage: the decree authorizes, in fact, the retroactivity of the use on the label. of the name Montebaldo, La Rocca or Sommacampagna, which will have a double size compared to that of the Bardolino mention, precisely to underline the strong identity of the wines from the three crus. A further modification envisaged by the production disciplinary of the Bardolino Doc also provides that from the 2021 harvest the maximum usable percentage of Corvina grapes rises to 95% from the 80% in force up to now. Only 100 quintals per hectare the production of grapes allowed for the sub-areas (against 120 quintals of the Bardolino “base”).