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There are many issues that, these days, wine is addressing, starting from sustainability, environmental and social, in the vineyard and in the cellar, passing through the value of organic and biodynamic productions and another hot topic, that of alcohol content, which grows with increasing temperatures, even where, normally, it has never been a problem, and again, the role and weight of brands in the dynamics that face territories and denominations. But it is from the universal and transversal one of sustainability, a value demanded by consumers and the trade and on which producers are working hard, that Monica Larner, one of the most authoritative journalists and wine critics, takes her cue and signs for Italy of the prestigious “Robert Parker – The Wine Advocate”, in his chat with WineNews, because “The Wine Advocate” decided to enhance it with the “Robert Parker Green Emblem”, which, in the first edition, awarded wineries symbol of Italian viticulture such as Sicilian Tasca d’Almerita, Alois Lageder in Alto Adige and Salcheto in the land of Nobile di Montepulciano.
“It is a project we have been working on for over two years, because we felt the need to do it, for many reasons. The first is that it is part of the quality of the wine and of what the producers themselves see in their product, which is always the reflection of a territory, of soils to be protected and vineyards through which to protect healthy ecosystems, both for the product and for the world of wine as a whole “, explains Monica Larner. The viticulture of the future must be sustainable, both from an environmental and economic and social point of view, a balance that wineries must aim to achieve “by looking at many different aspects”, Monica Larner continues. “Starting from the management of the cellar itself, but we must always have an eye for the social dimension, keeping in mind the reality that surrounds us, creating harmony between those who work in the vineyard and the products and materials that are used in the cellar, with a an approach that starts from the bottom to aim high and vice versa and that includes and involves the entire supply chain, to make the most of a company’s sustainability project “.
In this sense, organic and biodynamic productions, in addition to thoughtful choices made by winemakers who are particularly sensitive to environmental issues, have now also
“A marketing component, an aspect on which we have worked a lot, right within the“ Robert Parker Green Emblem ”. In the end, we started two projects: one is a filter, in our database, through which we can do research on certified organic or biodynamic wines; in addition, we recognize the fact that there are many companies, which for a thousand reasons do not have any certification, that we know how to work in an important way on the issue of sustainability, therefore the “Green Emblem” is born, an award that must also be given to those who are not certified but that, in this field, makes great efforts “.
Radically changing the subject, but remaining in the wake of the change between the rows, it is interesting to note how in all the most important wine territories in the world, including Italy, the alcohol content has grown a lot in recent decades, also due to Global Warming, and this despite the fact that the market has been asking for lighter wines for some time.
“A real request that comes from consumers all over the world”, says the Italian editor of “The Wine Advocate”. Adding, however, that “The problem of alcohol rising is a topic that must be kept under control, because it is a fact that we are recording in many wine areas, even in Italy, where traditionally the alcohol content had never been so high”.
Denominations and territories in which brands play a fundamental role in their affirmation, especially in a historical moment like the one we are experiencing, in which territorial identity has an increasingly important weight.
“They are two engines that go together: brand and territory. The debate on who pulls the most between the two has always been there, and perhaps the right answer is one: they must work together, because in a large territory a great brand that works to open new markets also gives the little ones the opportunity to follow the open road and grow, becoming a winning formula, which we have seen in all the most important wine areas, including Montalcino and Barolo ”. Speaking of territories and denominations, the future passes for the new generations at the helm of the wineries of the Belpaese, which will have to ferry Italian wine into the future, out of the pandemic, starting “From Sicily, where there is an enormous ferment among producers, who have a great desire to relive, be reborn, offer their wines. But even in a smaller denomination, in the heart of Tuscany, like Vernaccia di San Gimignano, I notice a very high presence of organic wines, which gives me hope, for a system that can work across the entire denomination. Umbria is also very active, but in the end we are all ready for a rebirth, the time has come for the whole Italian wine system. We have to go back to being seen, go to new markets, start traveling and marketing with enthusiasm, proposing the wines of this beautiful country “, concludes Monica Larner.


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Marco Ribaudo

Marco Ribaudo

For the love of food and wine! Marco Ribaudo, Certified Sommelier, with 25 years in the food and beverage industry now invites you to join him in his latest adventure, the opening of la Cucina del Vino to share his culture and passion for creating unforgettable memories around the table.

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