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Whatever role they have played in history, or play today, women have always been among the greatest admirers of wine and its culture. The story of the Countess Clarice della Gherardesca, wife of the Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, and her sister Carlotta are linked to the history of wine and, in particular, to the rise of one of the symbolic territories of world enology such as Bolgheri. wife of the Marquis Niccolò Antinori, with the respective Tenute San Guido and Guado al Tasso as a dowry. They are the early twentieth century and, starting from that moment, the facts of the territory between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast, are above all those of a story of pioneering and oenological freedom (which we will tell you about in the next few days in the video reportage by WineNews), based on three great international grape varieties, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – and, why not, the Petit Verdot – but also of crossed destinies, between the great families of the past, between the so-called “founding fathers” of Bolgheri (Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, Lodovico Antinori, Piero Antinori, Pier Mario Meletti Cavallari, Eugenio Campolmi and Michele Satta), the Bolgheri companies such as the Castle of Bolgheri of the Counts Zileri dal Verme, descendants of the Della Gherardesca, and among the important wine and non-wine entrepreneurs who, in more recent times, have invested in the territory believing in the potential of the “Bolgheri model”: from Angelo Gaja with Cà Marcanda to Paolo Ziliani of Guido Berlucchi with Caccia al Piano (where the first classic method was created in the Municipality of Castagneto Carducci and therefore in the Bolgheri area, which we will tell you about in a WineNews report in a few days) , from Marilisa Allegrini with Poggio al Tesoro to Giovanni Folonari from Tenute Folonari with Campo al Mare, from Stanislaus Turnauer from Tenuta Argentiera to the Knauf family with Campo alla Sughera, from Alejandro Bulgheroni with Tenuta Meraviglia and Le Colonne, from Claudio Tipa from ColleMassari with Grattamacco to Michele Scienza with Guado al Melo (a winery that is, at the same time, a museum, library and educational center on wine, as we will tell you in the online video in the next few days), from Banfi to Zenato with Podere Prospero, just to name a few.
Among “the cypresses that in Bolgheri tall and frank van from San Guido in double row” and while “the sour smell of wines goes to the souls in the streets of the village from the ribollir de ‘tini”, rereading without ever getting tired the verses that the great poet Giosuè Carducci dedicated to these places, is the story that WineNews tells of Bolgheri for “Bolgheri Divino”, the en primeur of the Consortium for the Protection of Doc Bolgheri and Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia Wines, with the preview for the Italian and international press of the new Bolgheri Superiore Doc 2020 (which will debut in the market in 2023)on stage today in the unique location of the ancient Torre di Donoratico, between the Bolgheri vineyards and the sea. But for the first time with the edition n. 2, tomorrow and 4 September, the event also opens to the public, allowing enthusiasts to meet the producers and taste the most representative wines of over 60 wineries and the new 2021 vintage of Bolgheri Doc Rosso. And it does so with a “Widespread Tasting” between the Frantoio di Casa Carducci and the Castello della Gherardesca in Castagneto Carducci, whose history follows precisely that of the Della Gherardesca family, its owner, and where the lives of two of the greatest poets of all time: Dante, who in the “Divine Comedy” dedicates one of the most famous songs to Count Ugolino della Gherardescawhose statue, a copy of those of the Metropolitan Museum in New York and the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, welcomes visitors on the square, and Carducci, for whom these are the most cherished places of childhood, immortalized by the first Italian Nobel Prize for Literature in works such as the ode “Davanti San Guido” in which the figure of a woman as strong as the grandmother Lucia Galleni. And which is inspired by the Viale del Cipressi di Bolgheri, whose arrangement is due in the early nineteenth century to Count Guido Alberto Della Gherardesca, pioneer of modern agriculture in the areaand who, with that pragmatism that still distinguishes this territory today, chose to plant cypresses, instead of plane trees and poplars too attractive for buffaloes in the wild, assigning them to an even poetic “immortality”.
But let’s get to the present. Daughters of art, heirs of the “fathers” of this territory and of a production committed to the constant search for excellence, today the “Ladies of Bolgheri” are among the most precious, elegant, refined and desired labels in the world, but they are also Albiera Antinori, president of the Consortium and of Marchesi Antinori, at the helm of Guado al Tasso, the historic estate of the Antinori family and of the wine-symbol Guado al Tasso, Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, head of external relations of the Tenuta San Guido where Sassicaia is born, an icon of Italy of wine in the world that gave rise and brought the territory to success, thanks to his father Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta and the oenologist Giacomo Tachis, and Cinzia Merli, at the helm of Le Macchiole, founded by Campolmi, the native of the “fathers of Bolgheri” of which he continues the production of wines such as Paleo and Messorio, both vice-presidents , at the helm of the Doc Bolgheri. A female “triumvirate”, but above all, and this is the most important aspect, of the highest level, different but all with the future of the territory clearly in mind.
“Focusing on the great wines of Bolgheri in their land of origin – explains Albiera Antinori – is the goal that we have set ourselves by thinking of “Bolgheri DiVino”. The 2022 edition is different from the previous one, with a great novelty: the opening to the public ”. A clear sign of the work that the territory is carrying out also in high-level wine tourism. But the mission of this second mandate, even after the obligation to insert the word “Tuscany” on the label and the amendment to the disciplinary for the production of Doc Bolgheri in the white version, is first of all to continue to increase the value of the wines. di Bolgheri, keeping firmly together a unique and important history, with the prestigious and market needs of a denomination on the crest of the wave.

Focus – The Bolgheri area in numbers
Authentic “pearl” of Tuscan and world enology, as the value of the bottled product, Bolgheri is by far the Denomination with the highest average price in Italy and in the markets of the world among all the Italian Denominations. And this, thanks to wines that are produced by 66 wineries in a beautiful territory, rich in nature and biodiversity, between the hills and the sea, but very small: just over 1,350 hectares of very precious vineyards which today have prices among the highest in Italy (over 500,000 euros per hectare, according to WineNews estimates, in the succession of acquisitions since the beginning of 2022) , and in which international vines, but not only, have found their utmost vocation. Wines that, also for this reason, have become among the most appreciated by critics and the market, among the most desired by collectors and among the most performing fine wines, sought and traded on the Liv-ex, starting from Sassicaia, Masseto and Ornellaia (the latter today owned by the Frescobaldi family, but created by the genius of Lodovico Antinori, founder of the Biserno estate, who has also marked and is marking the recomposition in the territory of the Antinori family with the brothers Piero and Ilaria, directed by Niccolo Marzichi Lenzi, in the nearby Bibbona, ed).
The result is a 2021 production that exceeded over 7.2 million bottles (from 6.5 million in 2020) for a turnover of 150-170 million euros. But also over 98 million euros which, from the “statistical game” of the crossing between stocks of Cantina Italia, the report of the Ministry of Agricultural Policies drawn up by the ICQRF, and the value of the bulk – around 850 euros per hectolitre for Bolgheri Rosso 2021, 1,000 for organic, and about 1,400 euros for Bolgheri Rosso Superiore (which, however, is practically not exchanged by anyone, ed), according to the data of the Consortium referring to March 2022 – are kept in private cellars and capitalized, between vineyards and buildings, with a profitability between 39% and 40%, which is a very high territorial figure.
Returning to the Bolgheri vineyards, the average age of the vines is almost 16 years, a sign that as a whole, the territory has just entered maturity and the average quality of production of the outgoing harvests in the coming years will only continue to rise.

Focus – The new vintages in Bolgheri
While the 2022 harvest is in full swing, from the WineNews preview tastings of the new vintages, Bolgheri Superiore Doc is the result of a harvest as great as 2020, characterized by a mild and rainy winter, and by a month of March in which on some nights the temperatures approached 0, but there were no problems related to frost. The spring was hot with normal rainfall, guaranteeing regular vegetative development until flowering. In mid-June there was the last big rain before the summer, which was hot and dry. It was necessary to wait until the end of August for new rainfall and a drop in temperatures. At the end of August, rains arrived which led to a significant drop in temperatures, which then rose again towards mid-September.
The Bolgheri Doc Rosso 2021 is the confirmation of an excellent harvest, the result of a spring whose beginning was dry until the beginning of April when a sharp drop in temperatures preceded a period with regular rainfall until mid-May. The hitherto humid climate began to change in June, when a dry and dry summer period began that lasted until mid-August. September began with summer temperatures and already from the second week it was characterized by an excellent temperature range between day and night. The harvest proceeded regularly assisted by the good weather and windy days that averted problems related to humidity.

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Marco Ribaudo

Marco Ribaudo

For the love of food and wine! Marco Ribaudo, Certified Sommelier, with 25 years in the food and beverage industry now invites you to join him in his latest adventure, the opening of la Cucina del Vino to share his culture and passion for creating unforgettable memories around the table.

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